Art Deco Emerald, Sapphire, and Diamond Pendant Necklace by Cartier, Paris, 1925 Art Deco Emerald, Sapphire, and Diamond Pendant Necklace by Cartier, Paris, 1925• A strand of oval- and baroque-shaped cabochon sapphire beads alternating with carved and fluted emerald beads inter-spaced with diamond rondel es, suspending the pendant from two diamond-set loops, each fit ed with an articulated snap clasp, connected to two channel-set calibré-cut sapphire loops at the top of the detachable pendant composed of three graduated emeralds, a pavé-set diamond boule, and a sapphire bead; the top emerald secured by three pavé-set diamond prongs; the central leaf-shaped emerald partly bordered with pavé-set diamonds and two sapphire-set prongs; the larger hexagonal emerald at the bot om carved with a Mughal flower motif, within a diamond-set bezel and four arrow-shaped prongs with channel-set buf -top sapphires; mounted in • 1 hexagonal-shaped emerald, weighing approximately 71.91 carats• 1 leaf-shaped emerald, weighing approximately 30.27 carats• 1 hexagonal-shaped emerald, weighing approximately 29.21 carats• 18 sapphire beads, 34 buf -top cabochon sapphires, 18 emerald beads, 652 diamonds• Signed “Cartier Paris” “Made in France” • Copy of original drawing• Necklace: 161⁄2 inches; pendant: 13⁄4 x 11⁄2 inches Certification• Cartier Certificate of Authenticity no. GE2012-5, dated January 30, 2012, stating that the necklace with pendant is Cartier Paris, 1925. Literature• Sot sass, Et ore, et. al. Cartier Design Viewed by Et ore Sot sass. Milan: Skira, 2002, drawing pl. 14. BiographyCartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. His three grandsons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, built the house into a famous international jewelry empire serving royalty, Hol ywood stars, and socialites. Cartier has created some of the most important jewelry and objects of art of the twentieth century with many iconic designs such as mystery clocks, Tut i Frut i jewelry and the Panthère line. In 1983, The Cartier Col ection was established with the objective of acquiring important pieces that trace the firm's artistic evolution. Today, Cartier has 200 stores in 125 countries.
SignificanceThe year 1925 was pivotal for French jewelers with the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris where designers exhibited their most innovative current creations. Gone were merely pret y jewels, replaced with stunning examples of the rectilinear precepts of Art Deco. Every important Parisian jewel salon participated in this exposition, displaying their latest avant-garde designs. Cartier exhibited jewelry set with Moghul emeralds. The Moghul emeralds Cartier incorporated into jewelry were of Colombian origin, imported into India beginning in the late seventeenth century up to the early twentieth century. This necklace, created in the same year as the Art Deco exposition, is designed with three important Moghul emeralds carved with floral designs on the front and reverse. Eighteen melon-shaped emerald beads were carved in a chevron and wave pat erns. Baroque-shaped sapphire beads soften the green of the emeralds with one between the two suspending emeralds. Art Deco ornamentation is evident in the sapphire-set arrow-shaped motifs as wel as the diamond-set prongs. This necklace was formerly in the col ection of Lil ian S. Timken, whose husband, Wil iam, was one of the founders of the Timken Rol er Bearing Company in Canton, Ohio. They lived in a 24-room apartment on Fifth Avenue in New York City. Upon her death, she donated important paintings to museums including Anthony van Dyck’s Virgin and Child with Saint Catherine of Alexandria and Jean-François Mil et’s Haystacks: Autumn to The Metropolitan Museum of Art; François Clouet’s Portrait of Elizabeth of Austria, wife of King Charles IX of France to the Art Institute of Chicago and Kurfürst Karl Albrecht’s The Hermit, to the National Gal ery. Lil ian S. Timken not only amassed a col ection of fine art but she also had an eye for jewelry, purchasing some of the finest examples from the 1920s and 1930s. In the sale of her jewelry, sold by Parke-Bernet Gal eries on April 6, 1960, are superb diamond rings and gem-set necklaces and bracelets by Boucheron, Cartier, Charlton & Co., Chaumet, Marcus & Co, Mauboussin, and Tif any & Co. This Moghul emerald, sapphire, and diamond necklace is one of the most important pieces from this col ection, and one of the most important examples of Cartier jewelry from the 1920s. Art Deco Emerald, Sapphire, and Diamond Pendant Necklace by Cartier, Paris, 1925


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